Ubon Ratchathani for Digital Nomads
Ubon Ratchathani is considered one of Isaan's 'big four' cities, even though it's noticeably smaller than the other three (Nakhon Ratchasima, Khon Kaen and Udon Thani). It's located in the east of the country, about 50km from the Laos border.
That puts it way off the usual tourist trail, meaning it has very few foreign visitors, and has had very little foreign influence. It therefore also hasn't suffered the spike in prices that more touristy parts of the country have, and as I'll get to below, you can find a hot meal here for 15 baht. It's also the final stop of the Ubon Ratchathani branch of the North Eastern Train Line, meaning you can get a train here from Bangkok for just 205 baht, so it's an ideal spot for a digital nomad on a budget. At least one who likes isolation.
It has the friendliest immigration office I've ever been to, which is a reflection of most of the people in this city. It's a calm, happy place. Just don't expect a vibrant nightlife. Craft beer or a game of pool is about as exciting as it gets.
I can't help but feel something's missing.
Who is Ubon Ratchathani suitable for?
I was approached by multiple people in Ubon and asked if I'd come here as an aspirant monk. That's a common reason why some foreigners end up here. I always felt a little sheepish when I had to respond that nope, just here to wander around for a couple of weeks really.
Once AI has robbed me of my career and job prospects, becoming a monk is definitely one of the options at the top of my list, and Ubon might just be the place to do it.
If you're not planning to train for ordination then Ubon is a pretty uneventful city. The nightlife here is very dry - this is not a place to come if you want to party.
It's a nice city to wander around and to relax in. There are many coffee shops here, but I didn't find there was too much "to do". If you're someone that needs to be busy and to be sociable all the time, Ubon is not for you. If you want to relax and just exist for a bit, you'll feel right at home.
How affordable is Ubon Ratchathani?
Ubon is cheap, even by Isaan standards. I was paying 550 baht per night for my room. A small bottle of Leo in the one foreigner-aimed by in town is just 65 baht (all the time, not just at happy hour), and there's a local 'jay' restaurant where meals start at 15 baht (rice with one choice from the buffet). If you're on a tight budget, you can live very, very cheaply in Ubon.
Is it easy to get by with English in Ubon Ratchathani?
Definitely don't expect English to be spoken. You will encounter many people that don't speak any, but I found that most people spoke enough that you can get by with only English in shops and restaurants, just don't hold-out for deep conversations.
What is the layout of Ubon Ratchathani?
Ubon's layout is weird. The airport is in the middle of the city, with the entrance in what you'd basically consider the city centre. I've never encountered such a convenient airport. Yet for some reason the railway station is way off to the south of the city across the river, and the bus terminal is way off in the north.
As there were no trains at convenient times for when I wanted to leave Ubon, I wandered up to the bus terminal one day to try and figure-out the times of buses to Buriram. As is standard in Thailand, there is no central ticketing area, and instead you have to deal with multiple companies. But there seemed to be about five different companies with buses to Buriram, and none of them could understand that I didn't want to take a bus that day, I was just asking about times.
I was there at about 2pm, and what I did learn was that it was more than three hours until the next bus, at which point I just said fuck it, a 7am train doesn't sound so bad now.
Ubon Ratchathani Bus Terminal
Is Ubon Ratchathani safe?
Yes, it's a very, very passive, very, very friendly city. Not really any safety concerns here. Some dogs might bark at you, particularly at night, but nothing worse than that.
How is the Internet in Ubon Ratchathani?
I had no problems during my stay. My accommodation had 210mbps download and 215mbps upload speeds.
Where to buy tea in Ubon Ratchathani
The only place I found to buy local Thai tea in Ubon was Utthayan Bunniyom (below).
Going to immigration in Ubon Ratchathani
In my many years in Thailand, I've had to deal with immigration offices in many provinces, and I was in Ubon this time when my 90-day report was due, so I wandered down to the Ubon Ratchathani Immigration Office.
Not only is the location here pretty convenient, being walking distance from the city centre, but I've never been to an immigration office where the immigration officials are so relaxed and helpful.
In other provinces they seem to make it their mission to be as unhelpful and as short-tempered as possible. I've literally had my documents thrown back at me before because they weren't correct. Here they were really calm, really helpful, they were smiling the whole time. It's the exact opposite of what you expect when going to immigration in Thailand.
If you do have an upcoming 90-day report or visa extension, then timing it for when you're in Ubon isn't the worst idea. It's rare to leave an immigration office in Thailand in a good mood.
I even got my documents photocopied on the way to immigration, at a copy shop across the street, and you know what it cost me? One baht per copy, so three baht in total. I've literally never bought anything that only cost three baht. I almost felt bad about it. I wish they'd at least rounded it up to 10 baht.
Being sociable in Ubon Ratchathani
A fever that I caught midway through my stay precluded me from being as sociable (drinking as much beer) as I like to do, but even so I can tell you that the bar scene in Ubon is a little tame.
Wrong Way Cafe is the only foreigner-aimed bar in town. It's quite a fun place with a pool table, and beers start at 65 baht for a small bottle of Leo, so you can sit here and drink all night without spending much. The atmosphere isn't going to blow you away, but drink enough and you won't notice.
Heisenberg's is a craft beer bar. The draft beers start at 69 baht, and none of them cost more than 140 baht. They're all local beers, so it's quite fun working your way through the list. The staff speak very little English, but you can get by.
I didn't ever make it to Ubon Tap Taste House Craft Beer & Foods, but it was an interesting looking place that was on my list to try, as was สะถาพอนเพื่อชีวิต. It's a small bar with a band very close where I was staying. It looked fun so I almost went in on my way home one night, but decided I couldn't handle another beer, but next time I'm in Ubon.
The other place I never made it to, was there's a line of restaurants/bars along the west bank of the Huai Wang Nong lake (start at the 7-11 and walk north). I came here for a walk on my first night in Ubon and thought that some of them looked a good place for a night out, but I never ended up making it there for a drink. Another one on my list for when I'm next in town.
Outside of going and sitting in bars, I found little in Ubon for meeting new people, but there was a poster above the urinal in Wrong Way Cafe advertising the Ubon Hash House Harriers which seems to be a running (drinking) club that meet on the first saturday of every month, so if you happen to be in Ubon then, give them a look.
Heisenberg's is a craft beer bar that sells local craft beer for very reasonable prices. This is the JF Pak Pay Hazy IPA, a 6.8% beer for 140 baht.
Where to run in Ubon Ratchathani
During my time in Ubon Ratchathani, Huai Wang Nong lake was going through a big refurbishment, and they'd drained most of the water from the lake and dug-up all the ground around it. As such, less than half of the lake was actually safely runnable, but even just what was available was really good for running.
The roads and pavements that had been built didn't yet have any markings on them, but the pavements were really wide and the roads had barely any vehicles. Running as far as you could in both directions got you to over 4km, so apart from having to turn around and re-trace your steps, this was a really great place to run.
Once the construction work on the lake is complete and you can go all the way around, it'll be amazing for running. I'd guess a circuit will be about 8km. Although it didn't look like they'll be finished any time soon.
There's also an outdoor workout area at the south-east corner of the lake that includes a pull-up bar.
I didn't feel the need to run anywhere other than Huai Wang Nong lake, but in wandering around town I thought the riverside looked quite a good spot for running. Very peaceful, wide pavements.
Nong Bua Public Park is a way out of the city centre, on the way up to the bus station (my walk to the bus station was when I discovered it). If you're staying in this part of town or if you have your own transportation, it includes a jogging track, and you might have a bit more shade than running at the lake, if that matters to you.
Huai Wang Nong lake and the surrounding roads are going through some quite extensive reconstruction. Even at this point though, the parts of it they've constructed are sufficient for running. You have wide pavements and very few vehicles on the road.
Where to get vegan food in Ubon Ratchathani
The vegan scene in Ubon is surprisingly good. There aren't many vegan-friendly restaurants, but unlike in other cities in Isaan, you actually have some variety here, and you're not limited to เจ ('jay') buffets.
Grow Up Eatery and Farm
Grow Up Eatery and Farm is the easiest place to get vegan food in Ubon. It's a health-focussed restaurant that serves meat, but their bilingual menu includes a vegan section, so you know what you're ordering, and you can just point at the menu if you don't speak any Thai.
They do healthy smoothies made with oat milk, smoothie bowls, a vegan kale soup that I got every time I came here, and some plant-based meat dishes with rice or noodles.
Prices are higher than you'll pay in local places, but worth it for when you want something healthy and easy.
This is the stir-fried plant-based crispy pork with noodles, which will cost you 105 baht.
Utthayan Bunniyom
Utthayan Bunniyom is a place that you're definitely going to want to visit in Ubon. It's a little vegan complex that includes a restaurant, a juice bar, a shop and a market.
As I was told by someone who works here, the idea was conceived by some local monks to provide food at below cost so that everyone can eat well. The เจ restaurant food is made from vegetables grown at their local farm/commune (I couldn't quite tell which with the language barrier) a little outside of town. It's then sold as rice with one choice from the buffet for 15 baht, rice with two choices for 20 baht, or rice with three choices for 25 baht. One of the cheapest meals you'll find anywhere in Thailand.
Given that, you can't really complain about having to do your own washing up once you've finished eating. There are some bowls of water and cloths at the back of the dining area. This is fair enough as I was also told that everyone who works here is a volunteer, so expecting them to clean-up after you is a bit much. As it's a buddhist complex, taking your shoes off before going into the dining area and into the store is expected. The store's particularly weird because you see people doing their shopping bare-foot, but it's well worth it.
It's the only place that I found in Ubon to buy local teas, and they sell them really cheaply - just 22 baht for 20 tea bags. They also have a small selection of nuts and seeds, and other things you might like (I really liked the crispy seaweed I bought here). Worth noting that the store isn't completely vegan. Perhaps unintentionally, I noticed that some crackers that they sold contained butter.
At the front of the complex, the vegan market is worth a visit, especially for fruit and veg. As fruit and veg is so readily available all over Ubon, this is less exciting, but if you are going to buy some fruit, may as well get it here and support somewhere that's doing some good for the world.
The restaurant at Utthayan Bunniyom is as cheap as you'll find anywhere in Thailand. I was splashing-out when I got rice with three choices from the buffet. It cost 25 baht. Just remember to do your washing up.
Baan-Khao-Hom
Baan-Khao-Hom is a no-frills Indian restaurant fairly centrally-located in Ubon. It doesn't exactly ooze class - I think it's a family-run place and everyone lives on site, because if you go to the bathroom you'll see all their toothbrushes, but I quite liked it.
There's a vegetarian page to their menu where all the curries barring the paneer curries are vegan. None of these are more than 150 baht, rice is 20 baht, a chapati or a roti is 35 baht and a soda water is 20 baht. That's a pretty decent feed for 225 baht.
Note that when you ask for the bill, they'll either just tell you the amount, or they'll scribble something illegible on a bit of paper. On one occasion, once I'd paid and left the restaurant I realised I'd been over-charged 30 baht. From that point on I was very careful, knowing the price of my meal before I asked for the bill, and it never happened again so I assume it was done in error rather than malice. Just in case, double check the price before of your meal you pay.
This is the daal, which costs 140 baht, with yellow rice for another 20.
The Outside Inn Mexican restaurant
I stayed at The Outside Inn for my time in Ubon. Part of the reason for that, was that I saw that its attached restaurant included some vegan items on the menu. I was somewhat disappointed therefore to find that by my arrival they'd been crossed-out. Still, I persisted and asked the staff what on the menu could be made vegan.
We chatted for a while and one option I was told was that the enchiladas could be made vegan. I stressed that I didn't want anything with dairy, and this was understood. So when they were served with a dollop of sour cream on top it was a bit disappointing, but thankfully the rest of the meal was vegan so I just scraped it off rather than making a scene.
That deterred me for about a week, but the convenience of being able to eat at the on-site restaurant dragged me back for another try. This time was a different member of staff; a young girl who spoke really good English and knew exactly what vegan means. After I initially agreed to her recommendation of ordering the tofu burrito and going and sitting down, I was told that they didn't have any tofu, but I could have the fajitas instead.
These came with sour cream as well, but at least it was in a separate bowl this time. I'm not sure why they were determined to give me sour cream. Apart from that this was a really, really good meal. The fajitas were delicious.
As I ate here on two occasions, and on both was served non-vegan food, it's quite hard for me to recommend eating here. But even if it's very hard work, where else can you get vegan Mexican food in Isaan? Getting any kind of non-Thai vegan food in Isaan is a struggle, so it's kind of worth it. Just really stress, no milk, no cream, no sour cream. Please!
And hopefully at some point they'll return their natively vegan items to the menu.
For my first meal here I got the enchiladas made vegan. Apart from that big dollop of sour cream. They cost 249 baht.
Where I stayed
The Outside Inn
| Room | 6,575.39 THB |
| Taxes & fees | 1,164.27 THB |
| Total |
7,739.66 THB
(552.83 THB per night)
|
Even though one of the reasons that I chose to stay here, was the ultimately not very vegan-friendly on-site vegan-friendly restaurant (see above), I still tried my best to enjoy my stay. The room was pretty large, especially for the price, with plenty of space on the floor to exercise. The bed was comfortable, and while it wasn't brimming with facilities, it had the essentials - a fridge, a kettle, a desk with a chair, and a fast, reliable wifi connection (210mbps download speed, 215mbps upload). They have a water cooler in the communal area that you're encouraged to use (I think they regretted saying that to me seeing as I drink the water of an elephant), although the bottles for it were empty for about a week of my stay. And the location here is pretty good. The nearest 7-11 is about a six minute walk, Huai Wang Nong is about 12 minutes on foot, and the town centre is an easy walk too.
Given all I've just said, you might wonder what I could have to complain about, but if you know me then you know I value one thing above all else: Daylight. I never close my curtains as I like to rise with the sun each day, and the more natural light that gets into my room, the happier I am. And my room here was just too dark for my liking.
The Inn has two floors of rooms, and I was regrettably on the ground floor. Even though the restaurant garden was right outside my window, I still slept with the curtains open on the assumption that no one would peer in. But a combination of the small window and the trees outside blocking the sunlight meant that the room was just dingy. All the time.
There were two ceiling lights in the room, but the bulb was in one of them was so weak that you couldn't even tell if it was on. So essentially there was one light trying to illuminate this large, dark room, and it just didn't cut it. Even in the middle of the day I felt like I was living in a cave, and by the end of my stay I was completely over it. There's a very reliable correlation between the amount of daylight that gets into my room, and my mood, and this room was just too dark. Perhaps had I been in one of the upper floor rooms things would have been different.
A small number of other things slightly temper my willingness to recommend staying here. Firstly was the amount of bugs that continually found their way into the room. That's not really something I feel I can complain about, because if you want to stay somewhere like this where there are trees outside your window, then bugs are going to be a consequence, but there did seem to be a regular supply of centipede-type things that found their way into the room. The shower in particular was an ecosystem unto itself. Some nights the inn would play loud music that reached into the room. It wasn't every night, and I actually quite liked their choice in music, so it didn't bother me some of the time. But if I was trying to code, or I was studying Thai, then I was thankful that I have a good pair of noise-cancelling headphones.
Three days after I arrived, I went out for the day and by the time I came back, someone had come in and changed the bin. Ok, I thought, they'll come in every fews days to change the bin, I'm happy with that. I don't need the room made-up every day. Yet a week later no one had been into the room again. I went to the reception to ask the girl there if someone could change the bin, because it was overflowing by now. "Oh, I'm sorry. The owner's not here today" was the response.
Does the owner need to be here to supervise someone changing a bin bag? I assumed that the message would get relayed to the owner once she got back, but as I was working the next couple of days I didn't bother asking again and just gave up. It meant that for the last eleven days of my stay, the quite small bin in my room didn't get changed once. And I eat a lot of fruit, which meant it was overflowing with rotting fruit peels (might explain the bugs). But after not being given fresh towels or a spare roll of toilet paper or having the two tiny bottles of shampoo I was provided with replensihed, on my fourteenth and final night here, new towels, toilet paper and shampoo were left outside my room.
Ok, that's just weird. I didn't even bother taking them into the room. There was no point by then.
In this part of the world where tourism is pretty scant, you can't expect too much from the place you're staying. In that sense, Outside Inn could be worse. Being so close to the lake is a big plus for me. But I think that the next time I'm in Ubon, I'll look for a more standard hotel. Somewhere with white walls and big windows and lots of beautiful daylight, even if it means paying three times the price. The vegan items on the menu that lured me to stay here no longer exist, and the room on its own just isn't that great.
Don't let this picture fool you, my camera works wonders in dimly-lit environments. Apart from daylight, the room has everything you need. There's a kettle and a fridge, and I moved that bedside table next to the fridge so I had a table to store my nuts, seeds and equipment on.
Summary of Ubon Ratchathani
Final thoughts
Imagine for a second that you were an alien. You'd read about Buddhism and liked the sound of it, and so you decided on your holidays you were going to go to a Buddhist country. You decided to go to earth and then decided that you'd go to Thailand, and you ended up in Pattaya. You'd feel a little bit cheated.
With all the drunk people, various guises of prostitution on every street, and all the scams, you'd feel that it didn't quite represent the buddhist values that you'd read about.
Pattaya is perhaps a more extreme example, but you wouldn't exactly be thrilled if you went to Bangkok or Phuket or Chiang Mai either. If you only get enough leave for one intergalactic holiday per year, you'd feel a little misled.
Ubon might still be a far cry from the world that you'd imagined, but it's closer to resembling what you'd imagine a primarily Buddhist country to be like, than anywhere else I've been in Thailand. It's a very relaxed, calm place. There are very few signs of affluence. People are friendly and trusting, I sense very little anger here. Cars all drive passively, and I've never been to an immigration office where the people are actually friendly and helpful before. It's much closer to what the government and the tourist brochures want you to think that Thailand is like.
Unfortunately there are no tourists here to see it, and they instead go to Bangkok, Pattaya and Phuket, but for the very few that do come, they experience a Thailand a bit closer to the Thailand that Thailand wants you to think that it is.
Do I want to come back again?
I really like Ubon as a place, for how calm and relaxed and friendly it is. The downside to calm and relaxed and friendly is there's not much excitement either. Sometimes you need that. It's a perfect place to come when you need some downtime. For when you just want to get away from everything for a while.
While it might not quite be an ever-present on my Thailand itinerary, I can definitely see that I'll be back in Ubon at some point in the future. I'd love to run around the lake once it's finished, and I did really like it here and have more to explore.