Nakhon Ratchasima for Digital Nomads

Nakhon Ratchasima, also known as Korat, is the third largest city in Thailand in terms of urban population (behind Bangkok and Chiang Mai), making it the largest in Isaan.

Given the number of foreign tourists that visit Thailand (over 35 million in 2024), Korat is a very curious place. Being the third largest city in the country you'd expect it to get at least some spill-over of the crowds flocking to the islands or up to Chiang Mai, but there's none. There's basically no tourist industry here at all.

Foreign faces, particularly younger foreign faces (below 40) are so rare here that I garnered a degree of attention sometimes just walking down the street, particularly when I wandered off down small side roads, which I have a tendency of doing. Some people shouting 'Hello' at me from their rooms or from their motorbikes, excited that they got to share their fledgling English, others staring like they'd seen an alien.

Because of that lack of a tourist industry, it took me a little while to settle into Nakhon Ratchasima in the sense of it feeling like a place I belonged. In tourist-heavy places, you'll be beckoned, shouted to, and sometimes even dragged into bars and restaurants and massage shops. And while the motivation for that may be nothing but money, it's still nice to be welcomed, even as a walking wallet. Here it's the opposite. While everyone I encountered was more than friendly eventually, at times you'd see a mortified look on some staff member's faces as you approached them in a shop or restaurant. Speaking to them in Thai always made that look go away.

After a few days in Korat I'd established my regular restaurants and my favourite bar and had become a familiar face and got to know the people a bit. That was the point I started enjoying it here. Compared to touristy cities where you're pre-loved for your money, it took a bit of time.

If you wander around Korat aimlessly you'll happen upon some quite cool street art. Combine that with all the craft beer and Korat is actually a bit hipster. I call this one the angry woman.

Who is Nakhon Ratchasima suitable for?

Given what I said above, I'd say that Nakhon Ratchasima is more suited to people who have the time to get to know it as a city. Coming here for three days would have been futile for me, because I wouldn't have felt remotely settled by then. If you're an extroverted person, which I am not, then you can perhaps settle-in a bit quicker than I did, but I'd still recommend giving it at least a couple of weeks.

It's also not a place for the socially-needy. I'll get into having a social life (or a lack of one) below, but you're most likely going to be spending a lot of time alone, and almost every other foreigner you encounter here will be a heavy-drinking male above the age of 60.

Why does it have two names?

This city, and the province of which it's the capital, are known both as Nakhon Ratchasima and as Korat.

Korat is the name used in everyday conversation. If you want to say to a local person that you're coming here, then you'd tell them that you're going to Korat (you'll sound a bit odd saying that you're going to Nakhon Ratchasima).

Nakhon Ratchasima is the official name. It's what you see on Google Maps and it's what's printed on your train ticket when you come here. Which begs the question, why does it have two names?

The older of the two names is Korat. It evolved from the name Sima, which in ancient Sanskrit means border/frontier, as an early settlement here was a frontier town during the Dvaravati period (6th to 11th centuries).

The name Nakhon Ratchasima was introduced in the 17th century. It translates to 'Great City of the King of Siam', and was given to reflect the city's importance as a stronghold at the eastern edge of the Ayutthaya kingdom.

Despite officially being called Nakhon Ratchasima since then, for more than 300 years people have been all 'fuck you, we'll call it what we want,' and with a stubborness that I respect continue to call it Korat to this day.

A more modern equivalent is how in Vietnam Saigon is known as Saigon to everyone, but its official name is Ho Chi Minh City and the government refuses to let that go.

How affordable is Nakhon Ratchasima?

It's dirt cheap. While my hotel was close to 1,000 baht per night (more than this during my first visit), it's certainly not necessary to pay so much. In fact, the hotel next to mine has 'Hotel 400B' painted in large blue letters on the side, as all classy hotels do. Meals in local restaurants start at 40 baht.

"Hotel 400B"

Is Nakhon Ratchasima safe?

100%. As with anywhere in Thailand, pedestrians are few and far between as locals opt for literally anything but walking. Therefore, going down quiet side roads the soi dogs can be a bit territorial, particularly if you're running. That's about as bad as it gets.

Is it easy to get by with English in Nakhon Ratchasima?

Certainly don't expect English to be spoken - it often won't be. In particular at the local places that I ate the staff didn't speak any English, so if you speak Thai it'll make life easier. Even if you don't, the people are very patient and welcoming, so caveman noises and sign language will probably be sufficient to get your point across.

Being sociable in Nakhon Ratchasima

Foreigner-central in Korat is a bar called Monkey Bar. If you want to go somewhere where there's more white faces than Thai, then this is the place for you. I came here one time. I didn't really enjoy it.

The customers are primarily retired male expats, many of whom look like they regret their life choices, and the staff are all young Thai girls who look like they're in the process of regretting theirs. The vibe is just a bit weird.

It's basically the only foreigner-aimed bar in the city though, so if that's what you're looking for you're kind of stuck with it. There's also a newly opened bar called Hole in One. I never made it there, but it's perhaps worth checking-out.

What I enjoyed more about Korat, is that there's a surprisingly vibrant craft beer scene. And while the price of a beer in these may be more than double what you'll pay for a generic local beer, I enjoyed working my way through them. My favourite was a bar called Must So Kiss. I never understand the names of craft beer places - it seems to just be a competition to out-weird any other craft beer bar names. Ignore the name, there's nothing sexual about this place at all, and I found it was a really nice place to come and have a drink.

For most of my time sitting at the bar here I was the only customer, but that worked quite well because the barmaid spoke English to a similar level as my Thai, so we both got a chance to practice and she taught me a lot about Korat.

Wandering around the city you'll find a few other craft been shops, such as Some Might Say (the same owner as Must So Kiss), or Tin's Thing Brewery. And you know what I learned while here? I don't get hangovers when I drink craft beer. That was quite a revelation.

If you're not into going to bars alone (weirdo), there are no Meetup events in Korat, but there is an Expats in Korat / Nakhon Ratchasima Facebook group. Events get posted on there occasionally, so give that a look and you might get lucky.

My favourite bar in Korat is a little craft beer bar called Must So Kiss (don't ask).

Where to run in Nakhon Ratchasima

All of my runs in Korat have been at Bung Ta Lua Park. It's a lake with a circumference of just over 3km. It has a wide running path on the outside, and a separated cycle path on the inside. That's nice and all, but as I've done all my runs in the middle of the day, I've never been here and not had pretty much the entire lake to myself. And if you're feeling greedy, there's another lake right next to it that'll add about an extra kilometre onto your route, although you have to cross a road to get to it.

There's something army-related next to the lake. Perhaps a barracks, because you'll often see army-looking people doing drills in and around some of the buildings off to the side of the lake. And I think they're also responsible for its maintenance because army-dressed people will sometimes be out cutting the grass and emptying the bins.

There also must be an air force base somewhere in Korat, because it's very common to see fighter jets pissing around in the skies above the lake. It's quite fun to watch actually, because they'll be flying upside down and stuff, but it doesn't half make a racket. You'll be able to hear these planes from all over Korat, but they seem to particularly like flying over the lake.

The only negative about running at this lake is it isn't that easy to get to. From my hotel I'd walk down this soi of which I don't think they ever get foreigners, because my presence would elicit a wide mix of reactions. The first time I decided to jog to the lake, and down this soi I got chased by a couple of dogs, from which thereafter I walked until I got to the lake. While it is possible to get here on main roads, from where I was staying it would have added a bit onto my journey.

If Bang Ta Lua isn't convenient for you, consider the Nakhon Ratchasima Municipal Sport Stadium. I didn't run here as it was further from my hotel than the lake, but from what I can see it's a public stadium that includes a running track, so should be viable.

Bung Ta Lua Park has a running track (outside) and a cycle track (inside) that go the entire way around the lake. While it even suggests that faster runners go on the right, you're unlikely to see anyone else running here, particularly if you come in the daytime.

Getting vegan food in Nakhon Ratchasima

I hope you like Thai food. And even if you do, by the time you leave you're going to be sick of it. That's because the only vegan-friendly restaurants within easy access of the city centre are your typical เจ ('jay') buffet restaurants. And while the quality of these is pretty good, I need more variety in my life.

The best value one is a place called Vegetarian Food For Health. It's a lovely family-run restaurant. The staff here don't really speak any English, but they're very friendly and patient. They close at 6pm, but as is standard in such places, anything can be taken away if you want something to reheat for dinner. Rice with three choices from the buffet and a soup will cost you 40 baht.

My other go-to in Korat is the nearby Guanyin Vegetarian Restaurant. It's a little more expensive; I didn't get a meal here that cost less than 60 baht, but the quality is really good and they offer a little more variety than Vegetarian Food For Health. The staff very sweetly try to speak English (even though I'd speak to them in Thai). They also close at 6pm.

A little out of the centre, across the railway tracks and at the back of petrol station forecourt, is a restaurant called อุทยานอาหารเจ-มังสวิรัติ, which translates roughly to 'Vegan-Vegetarian Food Park'. It's actually a lovely little place. Very nicely decorated, pleasant to sit in, and yet for some reason they serve you food on prison trays. I believe it to be vegetarian rather than a vegan restaurant. Despite all the เจ signs, some food definitely looked like it contained egg. Rice with three choices from the buffet is 45 baht, but beware that they close at 3pm.

Another option is the vegetarian (not vegan) kiosk in the Pier 21 food court on the fourth floor of Terminal 21. To be honest, it's a bit shit, especially later in the day when the food looks old and there aren't many choices left, but it is at least open later than the above options, allegedly staying open until 10pm. Rice with three choices from the buffet is 47 baht.

Once you get tired of eating at all the เจ restaurants in Korat (which you will if you stay here for a while), the only other option is there's a small number of Indian restaurants scattered inconveniently outside the city centre. I came to one of these - A Curry Pot, when I was hungover and couldn't face any more Thai food.

It was far from the best Indian food I've ever eaten, it was overpriced, the staff seemed a bit annoyed that I was asking them about the food and what was vegan-friendly, despite being the only customer in the restaurant, and the atmosphere wasn't exactly serene as the whole time I was there the waiter watched videos on his phone loud enough so he could hear them over the relaxing restaurant music. Despite that, it was nice to eat something that wasn't Thai food. I'd do it again.

The location is north of the city centre, but they're also on Grab as 'A curry pot restaurant - nuu ช้างเผือก', although if you get delivery you'll miss-out listening to the waiter's favourite YouTube videos.

In terms of grocery shopping, there's a Foodland supermarket in the basement of Terminal 21, which isn't that great except it has a suspiciously large number of vegan frozen meals. About 50% of their frozen produce is vegan. It's very odd when the rest of the supermarket isn't very vegan-friendly at all. If you have a microwave in your room then it might be worth a look. Across the street from Terminal 21 you'll find a big Big C. All their nuts were on special offer last time I was in Korat. That was like Christmas for me.

Vegetarian Food For Health is the best value restaurant I went to in Korat. Just because rice with three choices from the buffet and a soup only costs 40 baht, doesn't mean it's small.

Where I stayed

Romyen Garden Place

168/9 Jomsurangyard Rd

You might not think it given the price, but Romyen is actually a pretty fancy hotel. Korat is just that cheap.

They offer four different room sizes. The superior room is ironically the smallest at 33m², the deluxe room is slightly bigger at 37m², and they also offer 66m² and 94m² apartments. I stayed in the 37m² deluxe room during my first stay, but what I realised is that the only difference in size is in the "kitchen". And the reason I say "kitchen", is that it doesn't actually contain any kitchen stuff - it's just the space where a kitchen should be.

They don't actually equip any of the kitchens with plates or cutlery or anything to cook with, presumably to encourage you to order room service. Therefore the only practical difference between the rooms is that the deluxe room includes a microwave and an armchair, which is definitely not worth the extra 250 baht per night.

Frustratingly, the hotel restaurant is not at all vegan-friendly. The only vegan food item they offer is a seasonal fruit salad, which as I found contains only two kinds of fruit. Even so I do like this place, and will probably stay here again next time I'm in Korat.

The location's really good. You're pretty central in Korat, there's a 7-11 very nearby, the vegan restaurants listed above are within easy walking distance, and you're about a twenty minute walk from Bung Ta Lua Park. The hotel pool is strategically placed to be the first thing you see when you come here but doesn't get much use. Perhaps the most under-appreciated feature is the hotel gym. I say that because I've been up there many times, yet never seen another sole in there. And it's a surprisingly well equipped for a hotel gym. Loads of different handles and fixtures that you wouldn't expect. It even has a battle rope.

There's also a spa on site, and one thing I do like about this hotel, is they don't charge excessively for on site services like most hotels do. A one-hour Thai massage at the spa is 250 baht, which is the same as you'd expect to pay on the street, and they also include some drinks and snacks in the room, but charge you the same as you'd pay in 7-11, so you don't have to quickly replace them before they notice.

The room includes a very comfortable king bed and a decent desk and chair which make a good workstation. The TV's not the best, but it's good enough to do workouts on, and in the room you get a kettle, a fridge, a good shower and fast, reliable wifi. Even the superior room is spacious enough that you can comfortably have a workout in the space between the bed and the TV.

Taken from my second stay, this is the bed in the 'superior' room, but it's no different from the one in the deluxe room.

Summary of Nakhon Ratchasima

Final thoughts

The only real foreign presence in Korat is that of retirement-age men. There are no other 'young' foreigners in Korat, and I say that unironically as someone that turns 40 this year. It's very rare I feel conscious about being too young, but that's kind of how it felt in the one foreigner-aimed bar here, which is why I think I preferred going to craft beer places that had a younger, local crowd (or no crowd at all).

If you're a young digital nomad who's socially needy and wants to hang around with people your own age, this is probably not a place you're going to want to come. It's really only suitable for those comfortable in their own company.

The flip-side is that it's not a place that's been influenced by tourism at all. That's not good if you want things to be easy. If you want everyone who serves you to speak English and all your menus to be in English, then it's not the place for you either. But then if you want everything to be like it is at home, why did you leave in the first place?

Despite its size, Korat is a local city. Be sure you know what that means before committing to come here long-term.

Do I want to come back again?

I'd gladly come back again, but at the same time not much about Korat excites me. It's a nice, unexciting place to exist for a while. That's the best way I can describe it.